A visit to paradise

By Peter Thornton

Taking on two best kept secrets, the Ōhope Beach Links and Whakatāne Golf Club.

There is no feeling quite like playing a golf course for the first time. The anticipation, the uncertainty of how a hole plays, and the chance to make your debut a memorable one.

According to Golf NZ, there are 396 courses across Aotearoa and by a rough count, I reckon I have played around 100 of them. So, I always jump at the opportunity to play a new course.

I have been writing these golf features for three years, and after heading away with the lads a couple of times a year, my wife Katie suggested it was time for the family to come. Fair enough.

NZ golfing great Greg Turner rates Ōhope Beach Links as one of the best links courses in New Zealand.

On an overcast Auckland morning, we packed the car with our three kids and enough gear to last the entire summer holiday for a four-day trip. Travelling in tow were good family friends, the Brookbanks, who I have known for around 30 years and have three kids the same age.

The Whakatāne is a regular host of regional and national tournaments.

Arriving at Ōhope Beach was a special feeling. That first view of the white-sand beach takes your breath away. It is 11km of untouched coastline and it’s easy to see why this place has been voted the best beach in Aotearoa for the past three years by NZ Herald readers.

Both families were straight into the super warm ocean for a swim before we headed out for dinner at The Comm in Whakatāne. It’s a relaxed and spacious pub that serves quality burgers, fish and chips and the like. I settled in with a Good George Beer Tasting Rack of five brews, and a chicken burger as we plan the next few days.

Great expectations

On our itinerary were two of New Zealand’s hidden gems – the Ōhope Beach Links and the Whakatāne Golf Club. Two courses that are contrasting in character but are both so special.

It had been three months since my last game of golf – after a break to run the Auckland Half Marathon – so I was hoping to be inspired by these beautiful surrounds and find some magic.

Chris – a quality sportsman who hates to lose at anything – had played a handful of times in the past few years and his clubs were straight out of the 1990s so he trumped me for excuses.

With the sun rising over a beautiful setting, we arrived at the Ōhope Beach Links full of plenty of nervous excitement. The format was simple. We played off the stick in match-play with the loser buying the beers.

As we lined up on the first tee, L.A.B’s anthem Take It Away was playing in the pro shop. They are one of my favourite bands and hail from the Bay of Plenty. They sound like this place; relaxed, upbeat and happy.

My expectations for Ōhope Beach are high and it doesn’t disappoint. One of New Zealand’s golfing greats Greg Turner describes this as one of the best links courses in the country.

“Seaside terrain as dramatic as anything in the British Isles and the views are exceptional,” says the former New Zealand Open champion and world-class designer.

“If there’s a better value links experience anywhere, I haven’t found it!”

Turner is right. At $70 for affiliated golfers, Ōhope Beach is a must play course. It’s a brilliant blend of stunning coastal views, challenging winds, and natural sand dunes.

The club’s manager Darrin Hannah is an affable bloke. He says the layout demands accuracy and strategic shot placement, especially on the greens.

“For first-time players, focus on course management over distance. Pay attention to wind conditions, as they can significantly affect your shots, and avoid being too aggressive on the greens,” he says.

The course officially opened on 13 April 1975 and will celebrate its 50th anniversary next year. It has come a long way from its humble beginnings where it’s membership of 68, enjoyed the “rough and ready” nine-hole layout.

A sign of a good course is one where you could pick multiple signature holes. At Ōhope Beach Links, there are many holes with incredible views that will live long in the memory.

It is a short course at 5,437m from the green (middle) tees, but the size and subtle slopes on the greens make it a real challenge. When the wind gets up, it has some teeth.

I get off to a ropey start and Chris is one-up after four holes. I find some much-needed confidence to win five holes in a row heading into the turn. My best shot comes on the par four seventh where I hit a rescue up and over the trees and water to find the green, and make par.

Chris makes many good bogeys on the back nine to keep it a tight match, but when I make a putt for bogey on the par 3 14th, it’s enough for a 6 and 5 win.

By now, it’s a hot day and it’s always nice when a good mate is shouting the beers.

The Kiwi capital of New Zealand

During our time in Ōhope Beach we stayed at the Beachpoint Apartments. This place is perfect for a golfing getaway or a family retreat. The generous two-bedroom apartments on the beach provide plenty of space to relax and our kids lived in the heated pool downstairs.

You’ll never grow tired of the panoramic view of Ōhope Beach below with the rumbling of the ocean as a constant acoustic. Whakatāne is the Kiwi capital of New Zealand, and as you put your head on your pillow you could hear Kiwi chatting in the surrounding native bush.

On Friday afternoon we ventured to Julian’s Berry Farm and Café. This place is a great escape and a haven for families.

We could have stayed here all day. The animal farm, playground, and the mini golf course make it a one-stop destination where the kids are constantly entertained. And that is not to mention the café, the pick-your-own berries, and the famous real fruit ice creams.

My three-year-old Toby loves two things more than anything in the world: ice cream and mini golf. He was in his happy place.

The par 3 11th at the Whakatāne Gollf Club measures 145m from the whites

To cap off a special day we headed to the Fisherman’s Wharf for dinner. This place is at another level, overlooking the scenic Ohiwa Harbour. Many of the patrons did a double take at our six rowdy kids pouring into the restaurant, but we made our way to a remote table to leave them be.

The seared fish of the day (snapper) was fresh off the boat. It fell apart in flakes on your fork on a bed of carrot and ginger mash. It was beautifully prepared food to cap day one.

Only a surfer knows the feeling

Saturday morning was family time. We began with a stroll down the road to a popular local spot, MOXI’s Café. They do a ripper of a cooked breakfast to set up the day. The kids had their own table and couldn’t believe their eyes when their pancakes came out stacked with ice cream and strawberries.

Today was a big day – the kids were learning to surf on Ōhope Beach. Ollie who runs the Salt Spray Surf School is a legend. He did a superb job of keeping the kids engaged and having fun.

Seeing my girls stand up on a surfboard as they cruised into the beach was one of the highlights of our time in Whakatāne. You couldn’t wipe the smile off their face.

Later that afternoon we were hosted by Takutai Adventures who boast a great array of fishing rods, stand up paddle boards and e-scooters to explore the estuary or neighbourhood.

Only a 200m walk from our apartments is the local village full of shops, restaurants and cafés.

Every night we brought our families together for dinner. On Saturday night we visited a local Mexican place called Cadera which was packed and full of energy. You soon see why; this place serves quality food and has a chilled-out vibe.

Listening to the sound of laughter from our kids, with a table full of Mexican food, and the beers flowing, it’s a moment where you wish you could just stop time.

A rematch for the ages

The final morning of the trip, Chris and I were ready for our rematch at the Whakatāne Golf Club.

I have great memories of this course. When I was working for Golf New Zealand as their media manager, Whakatāne hosted the Women’s Interprovincial tournament in 2011.

The opening hole at the Whakatāne Golf Club.

It was extra special that year as a young Lydia Ko was in her prime as an amateur. Auckland took on North Harbour in the final with Ko meeting her teenage rival, Cecilia Cho. Ko won that duel, but Auckland took home the trophy winning 4-1 for their 20th Interprovincial crown. By that stage, we all knew that Ko was something special and on her way to greatness.

Now thirteen years later I am back and hoping to finish the trip on a high note.

Lee-Anne Clark-McGregor, the club manager, offered this advice ahead of the round: “Be careful or you’ll get hooked and want to come and play here every week.”

She was right. Whakatāne is a beautifully presented course with immaculate greens. Its conditioning is why it’s a regular host of national and regional tournaments.

Watching my girls surf for the first time was one of the highlights of our trip.”

The course is a par 70 and plays at just over 6,000m from the back tees. She’s a good challenge. At Ōhope Beach you are often playing driver – nine-iron into many of the par fours, around Whakatāne, I was wearing a hole in my rescue with my approach shots.

I make a nice start with pars on the opening two holes. Chris stays in touch with some quality shot-making through the front nine and I’m 1up by the time we hit the turn.

I haven’t broken 90 in a couple of years and when I make three pars in a row on the back nine, I might be half a chance. We play solidly coming home, with nothing more than a bogey between us on the final four holes. I sign for an 89 and he cards 99, and I hold on for the win.

This trip could be a turning point for Chris who has played some solid golf on his return to the game. It’s been another good day and a fitting end to a remarkable holiday. Over our final beer, we are planning our return trip.

There are many things that make Whakatāne and Ōhope Beach a magical destination. The beautiful scenery, the unbelievable beach, the restaurants and world-class golf.

But most of all it is the people. The locals pride themselves on being friendly and great hosts. They make you feel at home and like their paradise is yours to enjoy for a few days.

The Ōhope Beach Links is on an incredible piece of land.

A special thanks to Anna Williams at the Whakatāne District Council for her support in coordinating this story.

For more information visit: https://www.whakatane.com/